'RED' Submariner Date Mark II 'Meters First' Brown Dial

SPECIFICATIONS

Brand: Rolex
Model: Submariner Date 'Red'
Reference Number: 1680
Movement: Automatic
Gender: Men's 
Condition: Good, wear consistent with use and age
Time Period: 1970-1971
Box: Yes
Papers: Yes

THE CALIBER

Caliber: 1575 
Jewels: 25 

THE CASE

Case Material: Stainless Steel
Case Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 14.4 mm
Waterproof: 600 ft./ 200 m./ 20 ATM
Bezel Material: Bi-directional rotatable bezel
Glass: "Top Hat" acrylic, cyclops bubble that magnifies the date at 3 o'clock 
Dial: Tropical brown Mark II 'Meters First' Singer. 
Dial Numerals: No numerals, patinated luminous round, rectangular, and triangular luminous indexes, minute divisions around the outer rim, and printed swiss-T<25 on the bottom

THE BRACELET / STRAP

Bracelet Material: Stainless Steel Swiss Folded - Fixed Links (Model Marked No. 9315 w/ End Links No. 380; produced from 1969 to 1978)
Buckle: Fold-over - Diver Clasp
Buckle Material: Stainless Steel

THE FUNCTIONS

Hours, minutes, center sweep seconds, cyclops lens date aperture at 3 o'clock,  48-hour power reserve

FURTHER READING 

INTRODUCTION OF THE ROLEX SUBMARINER DATE "RED"

The vintage Rolex Submariner Date "RED" Mark II, Ref. 1680, is a celebrated timepiece produced from the late 1960s to 1979, some claim 1980-81. This model holds a special place in Rolex history as it was the first Submariner to feature a date complication, complete with the now-iconic Cyclops magnification lens over the date window. The "Red Submariner" variant, produced until around 1975, is especially prized by collectors for its distinctive red "SUBMARINER" text on the dial—a rare feature that enhances the watch's value and desirability. After 1975, Rolex transitioned to inscribing the "SUBMARINER" name in white, marking the end of the "Red Sub" era.

CASE & DIAL FEATURES

The Rolex 'Red' Submariner Date "Meters First" Mk II features a 40mm tonneau-shaped stainless steel case, celebrated for its robust construction and impressive water resistance of up to 200 meters (660 feet). This durability and reliability have historically made it a trusted tool for professional divers and military personnel alike.

A standout attribute of this model is its original "FAT FONT" bezel insert, characterized by thicker numerals that exude a bold aesthetic. Over time, these bezels often fade to a desirable "ghost" finish—an ethereal, lightened hue that enhances the watch's vintage allure. Due to routine servicing over the years, many of these original bezels were replaced with thinner font versions, rendering the authentic "FAT FONT" bezels increasingly rare and sought after by collectors.

This particular example boasts a subtle yet captivating chocolate-hued dial, commonly referred to as the "Brown Sub" or "Chocolate Sub." This rare and beautiful variation is believed to have resulted from a manufacturing anomaly where dials gradually changed color from black to brown, possibly over months or years after production. It significantly elevates the desirability of the watch among enthusiasts worldwide. It's important to note that this color change process occurred within the first few years after production and is not ongoing. Brown dials are typically found on "Meters First" Mk II and Mk III versions within the 2.2 to 2.3 million case number range. The ultra-rare nature of this variant is further accentuated by the fact that only a small fraction of these dials underwent this transformation, with many being lost or replaced during servicing over the decades.

Complementing the distinctive dial, the well preserved luminous hands and hour markers have developed an even, light creamy patina, adding warmth and character to the watch's overall appearance. 

Rolex's experimentation with dial designs during this era led to the classification of Red Submariner dials into Marks I through VII. This Mk II dial, produced around 1970, is particularly prized for its "Meters First" depth rating, accompanied by open "6" numerals and the Thin Font Long "F" in the typography, along with the signature red over white 'SUBMARINER' inscription—all features that underscore its historical significance and collectibility.

MOVEMENT & MECHANISM

At the heart of this historic watch is the Rolex Caliber 1575, an automatic movement that is COSC-certified as a chronometer. The movement features an overcoil balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, and a hacking mechanism, ensuring precise and reliable timekeeping. Although some of the movements were stamped "1570" on the bridge, they are indeed Caliber 1575, reflecting the inclusion of the date function.

HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE & COLLECTABILITY

The Red Submariner's significance extends beyond its technical specifications. It was often worn by military personnel, including soldiers during the Vietnam War, adding a layer of rich historical context to these timepieces. The durability and precision of the Red Submariner made it an essential tool for professionals operating in extreme conditions.

The reference 1680 is also unique for its use of an acrylic crystal, the only Submariner with a date function to feature this type of crystal. This, along with the rarity of the red text on the dial, makes the Red Submariner one of the most coveted models among vintage Rolex collectors today. Due to the limited production and the practice of replacing damaged dials with white-text service dials during servicing, finding a Red Submariner in its original condition is increasingly rare.

THE SET

This particular Rolex Red Submariner Date is in good condition, accompanied by a Rolex period leather box and outer box, the original punched papers, and booklet. The case, dial, and movement are all signed, with the serial number 235**** confirming its production in 1970-71. Twain Time offers a 12-month warranty on this timepiece, ensuring your investment is well-protected.

Authentication

At Twain Time, trust and authenticity define our collection. With a rich history dedicated to the luxury watch industry, our Swiss-trained watchmakers meticulously authenticate each piece. This assurance is backed by our 1-year Twain Time Warranty, ensuring a seamless and reliable experience with every pre-owned watch.

Our experts not only authenticate but also preserve the craftsmanship of each luxury watch with meticulous care, utilizing factory-sourced parts for repairs. This commitment to excellence solidifies our reputation for quality and reliability. Our dedication and heritage have earned trust through curated timeless experiences, while our rigorous vetting process guarantees confidence in our ever-evolving collection.

Additionally, we offer a unique complimentary evaluation service, affirming our commitment to your confidence. Whether you choose to ship or bring a watch purchased elsewhere to our boutique, we thoroughly authenticate it, reinstating trust in your timepiece.

Discover our blog, team stories, and collector testimonials, unveiling a trusted partnership built on authenticity, expertise, and the seamless care embedded in our reputation at Twain Time.

Ordering & Shipping

At Twain Time, our ordering and shipping experience is designed with your ease in mind.

When you place an order, anticipate a prompt email confirmation including an estimated delivery timeline. Whether it's domestic or global, our swift and insured shipping ensures your item reaches you securely. Rest assured, if an item happens to be out of stock, there's no charge, and we'll promptly inform you.

Before each watch embarks on its journey, it undergoes a meticulous inspection, guaranteeing its accuracy and flawless functionality upon arrival at your doorstep.

We partner with renowned carriers such as FedEx, UPS, and DHL for global shipping. Domestic orders benefit from complimentary insured express shipping, while international charges may vary. While delivery times are approximations, domestic orders typically arrive within 1-2 days, whereas international shipments take approximately 7 days, accounting for customs clearance.

To safeguard your purchase, all shipments require an adult's signature and are fully insured. Please note, we dispatch to the address registered with your credit card company.

For international orders, customers are responsible for customs charges, import/export duties, applicable fees, or taxes. Additionally, New York clients are accountable for NY sales taxes on taxable orders shipped to NY State addresses. Should you seek further details, our extensive ordering & shipping policy offers comprehensive insights.

Once your order is en route, expect a tracking number for real-time monitoring of your delivery.

Any queries or feedback? Feel free to reach out to us at info@twaintime.com. Your satisfaction is our priority.

Warranties & Repairs

At Twain Time, trust is our timepiece's best friend. Our commitment to quality spans every pre-owned watch and mechanical marvel in our collection. Should the unexpected occur, count on us to swiftly make things right. We treasure our clients' satisfaction and trust above all else—this ethos echoes through every member of our team.

Each pre-owned watch undergoes meticulous, non-invasive mechanical scrutiny and servicing if needed. This ensures they not only meet but exceed our stringent standards for accuracy and functionality.

Rest easy knowing that unless otherwise noted, our pre-owned watches come with a robust warranty—either full or limited—spanning twelve months. However, this doesn't cover damages from misuse or accidents. Given their age, some watches may require gentler treatment than when they were brand new.

For those watches serviced by their original manufacturers, they bear the manufacturer's guarantee, surpassing our standard warranty. To delve deeper into warranties & repairs, check out our dedicated section. And if there's any doubt, drop us a line at info@twaintime.com for absolute clarity. At Twain Time, trust isn't just a promise—it's our guiding principle.

Returns & Exchanges

At Twain Time, ensuring your satisfaction drives our return and exchange policy. You have a 5-day window for hassle-free returns from receipt, provided the product is unworn, undamaged, and retains its original tag. We offer exchanges or full refunds via the original payment method for qualifying returns.

Exceptions include personalized, worn, or damaged items, as well as missing accessories. Exchanges allow exploration of our diverse pre-owned and luxury watch selection. Return items should be unworn with all original packaging intact, and jewelry returns must maintain their original condition.

Special order items and certain criteria are exempt from the standard return policy. Our comprehensive returns and exchanges policy, available for full information, applies to in-stock items and excludes consigned, special, or custom orders. Contact us for special order exchange details.

In case of difficulty meeting return conditions, contact us for discussion and authorization before initiating the process.

Notify your Twain Time Client Advisor within 3 days of receipt to request authorization for returns. International returns are accepted with buyers responsible for return shipping, customs fees, and taxes.

For queries or guidance, reach out to us at +1 (212) 256-0303 or info@twaintime.com. We're here to assist promptly.