Guide To The Rolex Explorer II 16570

Introduced in 1989 and produced until 2011, the Explorer II 16570 is one of the longest-running Rolex sports watch references in the brand’s history. It’s also one of the best value-for-money options in the world of Rolex sports watches. With excellent proportions, classic tool watch styling, and a handy GMT function, the Explorer II 16570 is a solid option as a go-anywhere-do-anything watch — a.k.a. a GADA watch.   

The Explorer II 16570 underwent several updates over the course of its long production run, receiving different calibers, luminous material, and markings throughout the years. As a result, there are several variations of the same reference available — not to mention two dial colors — to consider. Keep reading our detailed guide to the Rolex Explorer II 16570 as we examine its history, design, and evolution.
 

Brief History of the Rolex Explorer II

In 1971, Rolex introduced the Explorer II watch as a more specialized version of the original Explorer model. Designed for spelunkers, the Explorer II was equipped with a large orange-tipped hand that pointed to a 24-hour marked bezel to allow wearers to differentiate between day and night while in dark caves. This first model was the reference 1655 and it was produced until 1985. 

Rolex Explorer II Reference 1655

However, in 1985, Rolex redesigned the Explorer II to become a GMT watch — a much more practical feature to appeal to a larger audience. The first reference of this version was the Explorer II ref. 16550, which was only manufactured for a few years. Next came the reference 16570, which is the subject of this article.

Rolex redesigned the Explorer II yet again in 2011 with the reference 216570, a watch that was not only larger than its predecessor but also bolder in its design. This was replaced by the current production model, the reference 226570 in 2021, which features an updated movement. 

Rolex Explorer II References over the years

The Rolex Explorer II has seen several references throughout its history, each with distinct features:

Reference 1655 (1971-1985): This model featured a 39mm case size and was powered by the Caliber 1575. It used Tritium for lume and had an acrylic crystal. One of its key functions was the AM/PM indicator.

Reference 16550 (1985-1989): The 16550 came with a 40mm case size and the Caliber 3085. It also used Tritium for lume but featured a sapphire crystal. This model introduced the GMT function.

Reference 16570 (1989-2011): This reference maintained the 40mm case size and was equipped with either the Caliber 3185 or 3186. Depending on the production year, it used Tritium, Luminova, or SuperLuminova for lume. Like its predecessor, it had a sapphire crystal and the GMT function.

Reference 216570 (2011-2021): The 216570 increased the case size to 42mm and utilized the Caliber 3187. This model featured Chromalight for lume and retained the sapphire crystal and GMT function.

Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570 Black Dial

Reference 226570 (2021-present): The latest reference, 226570, continues with the 42mm case size and is powered by the Caliber 3285. It also uses Chromalight for lume and has a sapphire crystal, maintaining the GMT function.

Rolex Explorer II Ref. 226570 White Dial

As detailed above, the ref. 16570 was the last of the old-school Explorer II models with more classic proportions and style, yet it also benefits from more modern upgrades such as the GMT feature and sapphire crystal.

The Rolex Explorer II 16570 Design

While the Explorer II 16570 collection offers some variations, there are a handful of design details that they all share. For instance, like all Explorer II references, the 16570 is exclusively available in stainless steel and only comes equipped with a three-link Oyster bracelet and a fixed bezel engraved with 24 hours. 

The cases measure 40mm in diameter, 12.2mm thick, and 47mm lug-to-lug. The 40mm size is one millimeter larger than the maiden ref. 1655 and 2mm smaller than current versions, making it a great size for a range of wrists. Goldilocks proportions, if you will. 

Rolex Explorer II 16570 Black Dial

Dials, which are available in sleek black or crisp “Polar” white are home to lume-filled hour markers, a date window at 3 o’clock magnified by a Cyclops affixed to the sapphire crystal, and four hands including the lumed red arrow-tipped GMT hand and Mercedes-style hour/minute hands.

• Stainless steel
• 40mm case water resistant to 100 meters
• Fixed steel bezel engraved with 24-hour scale
• Black or white dial
• Red GMT hand on the dial
• Date window at 3 o’clock
• Sapphire crystal with Cyclops 
• Oyster bracelet
• Automatic movement

The self-winding movement inside the case is furnished with a flyer GMT, which means that the traditional 12-hour hand is independently adjustable making it easier to change local time when traveling while keeping the 24-hour hand pointing to home time. 

The overall design of the Explorer 16570 is rugged yet stylish, instantly recognizable as a Rolex tool watch, and immensely useful for those who are always on the go. 

The Rolex Explorer II 16570 Variations

As mentioned, there are several variations within the Rolex Explorer II 16570 family to note, which we’ve broken down here according to design details. 

Explorer II 16570 Cases, End-Links, and Clasps

Depending on the year produced, the Explorer II 16570 can sport a case with drilled lug holes, paired with a bracelet with folded end links or a non-drilled case with solid end links. As expected, the former versions offer a vintage vibe while the latter wears more modern. 

Something important to consider is that the later editions with solid end links are longer male links, therefore the case wears slightly longer. Conversely, earlier models with folded end links are shorter female links, therefore the case length is more restrained on the wrist. Also, the older models have that old-school “rattle” whereas the modern editions feel more solid. 

The transition from drilled to non-drilled lug holes and folded to solid end links occurred from 2000 to 2003. Also important to be aware of is that prior to 1998, Explorer II 16570 bracelet clasps did not have a fliplock. 

Explorer II 16570 Dials and Luminescence 

Ever since Rolex introduced the second reference of the Explorer II, the watch has been available with a black or white dial. The white dial is the more talked about version, picking up the “Polar” nickname due to its crisp color. However, we can’t deny the sleek and classic style of the black dial version; it’s a super versatile aesthetic that can be worn for just about any occasion. 

Rolex Explorer II 16570 aka "Polar"

Something particularly striking about the Polar Explorer II 16570 watches are the blackened outlines on the hour markers that match the handset. The previous white-dial versions did not include these black outlines but instead, white gold surrounds that didn’t pop as much against their fresh background. 

One of the most obvious variations among different generations of the Explorer II 16570 is the type of lume it has on the dial. The earliest versions, produced from 1989 to 1995, had tritium lume, accompanied by the “SWISS – T<25” inscription below six o’clock. Tritium dials typically patina over time resulting in creamy yellow, beige, or tanned shades, which plays up the vintage vibe of the sports watch. Generally speaking, Explorer II 16570 models with tritium are valued higher than those without. 

In 1995, Rolex began equipping its watches with non-radioactive Luminova luminescence, including the Explorer II. Reference 16570 watches produced from 1995 until 1997 will have Luminova luminescence on the hour markers and hands, accompanied by the “SWISS” text on the dial below 6 o’clock. 

In just two short years, Rolex switched to Super-LumiNova, which is essentially the same as Luminova but made in Switzerland instead of Japan. From 1999 onwards, Explorer II 16570 models were filled with Super-LumiNova, along with the “Swiss Made” marking at the bottom of the dial. 

In the mid-2000s, Rolex began laser engraving the rehauts (the ring between the dial and crystal) of its watches an as anti-counterfeit measure. The Explorer II 16570 began receiving these around 2007 at the same time as the movement switch, which we detail below. 

Explorer II 16570 Movements 

When it was introduced in 1989, the Explorer II 16570 relied on the Caliber 3185 self-winding movement for power. This was the same movement powering the GMT-Master II of the era. 

Caliber 3185 includes an adjustable 12-hour hand (making it a true “flyer” GMT watch) and a non-quickset date window. It operates at 28,800 beats per hour and supplies 48 hours of power reserve. When set correctly, the Explorer II 16570 can display two time zones simultaneously. 

 

Rolex Caliber 3185 Self-Winding Movement

In 2007, Rolex replaced the reference 16570’s Caliber 3185 with Caliber 3186, which had the added benefit of a more stable GMT hand. The GMT hand of Caliber 3185 had a habit of wobbling when setting the time. Another advantage of Caliber 3186 was the addition of the Parachrom hairspring for improved resistance to magnetism, shocks, and temperature swings. 

Rolex Caliber 3186 Self-Winding Movement

Four Explorer II 16570 Series

Now that we’ve covered the variations, we can see that there are four distinct generations of the Explorer II 16570 watch.

Series 1 (1989 to 1997)

• Drilled lug holes in the case with folded end links
• Folded end links
• Tritium lume on the dial, likely turned into a rich creamy yellow/beige/tan color by now
• SWISS – T<25 inscription under 6 o’clock
• Caliber 3185

Series 2 (1998 to 1999)

• Drilled lug holes in the case with folded end links
• Luminova lume on the dial
• SWISS inscription under 6 o’clock
• Caliber 3185

Series 3 (1999 and 2005)

• Earlier versions with drilled lug holes in the case with folded end links; however, Rolex began introducing no-lug-hole cases and solid end links between 2000 and 2003 
• Some examples include a combination of lug holes and solid end links
• Super-LumiNova lume on the dial
• SWISS MADE inscription under 6 o’clock
• Caliber 3185

Series 4 (2005 to 2011)

• No lug holes and solid end links
• Super-LumiNova lume on the dial
• SWISS MADE  inscription under 6 o’clock
• Earlier models were equipped with Caliber 3185, which was replaced with Caliber 3186 in 2007
• From 2007 onwards, rehaut engraved with ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX

A Good Value Rolex

As previously said, the Explorer II ref. 16570 is a good-value Rolex sports watch. Depending on the year of manufacture and condition, prices for a pre-owned Rolex Explorer II 16570 can start at $6,500 and can go up to about three times that for rarer variants. 

One example of these rarer variants is the Explorer II “Chicchi di Mais,” which is Italian for “corn kernel.” That is the nickname used to describe early Polar Explorer II 16570 models with tritium lume that has been patinated to a particular shade of yellow and the corn-like markers contrast starkly with the white porcelain-like background. 

However, most Explorer II ref. 16570 watches will sell between $8,500 to $10,500. White Polar versions typically cost more than black dials, yet both have their loyal fans. 

The Explorer II 16570 was in the Rolex catalog for well over 20 years and now, almost four decades since its debut, it offers collectors a chance to own a retro Rolex sports watch that’s part vintage, part modern, and 100% charming.